Regina Duke | Skin, UnfilteredThe Edits

Method

A convincing claim isn’t a convincing reason to buy.

What has to hold up before I recommend a product.

Hands holding an open jar of cream among green leaves

Skin, Unfiltered checks skincare claims against the label, the brand's published specs, and cited evidence, then says which products made the cut.

How Skin, Unfiltered reads a label

  1. Start with the back. For sunscreens, the Drug Facts box: active ingredients and percentages, “broad spectrum”, SPF, water resistance in minutes.
  2. Identify the exact promise. Then ask whether the evidence supports that promise for this finished product.
  3. Check the brand's own published page and the retailer listing, and note where they disagree.
  4. Check availability and price on the day, and date the verdict.
  5. If information essential to the recommendation cannot be verified, the verdict stays Pending review.

The possible verdicts

The lip SPF bar. For lip sun protection, Skin, Unfiltered prefers verified broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher. A lower SPF is judged case by case: the SPF level, broad-spectrum coverage, water resistance and how it's used. Color and comfort products without SPF are assessed separately; neither substitutes for sunscreen.

The regulatory background: cosmetics, drugs and sunscreen labels

A serum can list a well-studied ingredient without having been tested itself. A device can be FDA-cleared without proving every result in its advertising. Those distinctions matter when you’re deciding what to buy.

Cosmetic or drug: the line the vocabulary blurs

In the US, the law sorts products by what they are intended to do. A cosmetic is for cleansing, beautifying, or altering the appearance. A product intended “to affect the structure or any function of the body” is a drug, and is regulated as one. A product's claims are evidence of its intended use. (FDA: Is it a cosmetic, a drug, or both?; 21 U.S.C. 321)

“Looks firmer” and “rebuilds collagen” make different promises. Under US law, claims about treating disease or changing the body's structure or function can establish a drug's intended use.

Sunscreen's label has specific obligations

Sunscreen is regulated as an over-the-counter drug. Its label carries a Drug Facts box, and the terms on it are defined by rule: “broad spectrum”, the SPF value, and water resistance of 40 or 80 minutes. (21 CFR 201.327; FDA on sunscreen)

Clinical. Repair. Recovery.

Those words alone don't tell you what was tested, on whom, against what comparison, or with what result. “Hypoallergenic” offers another caution: FDA has no federal definition or standard governing that term. (FDA: Hypoallergenic cosmetics)

Research standards: what counts as evidence
  • Labels and listings establish declared ingredients, directions and product claims. Each card names its source.
  • Published research is assessed for study design, participants, comparisons and results. Ingredient research is distinguished from testing of the finished formula.
  • Dermatology guidance supports practical protection and care recommendations.
  • Personal use informs texture, comfort and everyday experience. It does not establish clinical efficacy.

Buying guidance

Money and independence

What this isn't

Independent consumer guidance, not diagnosis or treatment. New, changing or persistent skin concerns belong with a qualified clinician.